I'm jumping back in to post some updates on this whole neon lithophane process. I'm thoroughly enjoying it! Like I said in an earlier post, This all started as a test run, and now I haven't changed my filament in two weeks! It just so happens that the neon yellow is a hit!
There aren't to many special steps to take when printing neon lithophanes, but you definitely want to pay attention to a few specific things:
Lithophanes are narrow and tall by nature, which means they are really easy to knock out of wack and ruin the whole print. These have consistently taken more than 5 hours to print each, so that would be.. how do you say.. unfun. At this point I'm thinking the way to avoid errors here is to level your print bed. On my Sovol SV01 (which is basically a Creality Ender 3) it's pretty easy to accomplish this using the attached hardware and included firmware.
On this printer, whether it's due to a warped bed or not, I have found success positioning the lithophanes near the front of the build plate. This also prevents shadows when filming! I use a bit of Blue Painter's Tape to help with adhesion, you may find success in other methods. The last bit that seems to help a great deal is printing with a brim. This gives the print a larger foot to help it avoid tipping over.
Next Time I'll talk about setting up the UV Light and Using filters to film in UV conditions!
This layout was a lot of fun to play with, and I honestly haven't played with the idea for at least 2 years, BUT IT IS TIME.
This time, I have a vintage HP 204C oscillator and Tektronix Oscilloscope from my granddad's collection and I wanna make em go! The oscilloscope needs some Probes, so that's on the side for this session. Just know it WILL be part of this rig in the end. I'm not sure if I'll need to amplify the oscillator signal or not, so I'll have an amp on hand. I'll go on and set up a microphone as well, for any other noises and instrumentals I want to add during the recording session. As described above, the looper will be wired into the rig so I can play with some loopins. I'm escpecially excited to build chords and arpeggios. I should have a good amount of control of the signal this way as well, I look forward to frequency filtering and sweeping. Volume swells and violin tones!
Spending a few weeks with the pedal did however leave me wanting more functionality. Being limited to one input was beginning to be cumbersome. I spent some time going back over the boss loop-stations that were king at the time and the idea struck me! I could use some of my live sound rig to string all this together! The next portion of the process included all the basics of any full band setup: a ton of cables and too many instruments! The kicker in this whole setup is how the looper is wired into the rest of the system:
I ran the "Monitor" output on my audio console into the looper. The output of the looper then goes into a free channel on the audio console. No matter how many instruments you have, this setup creates the ideal loop lab! I can't speak to how bad this is for your console, so I'm using an old analog console. I still assume as long as no channels are showing spikes and no signals are distorting it should be good to go.
I'm not even sure it's to be considered an "instrument" or just a random assortment of gear wired together in Just the right way to make something really neat happen. A tinkerer must have their toys, and as a musician of 20+years, I have toys. At some point in my musical career I got into the loopstation thing, but definitely couldn't afford to jump on a big fancy boss looper pedal. A single channel pedal ended up being all I could afford at the time, but that tiny pedal would inspire a wild idea!
This pedal has one button and one 3-way switch that controls playback speed. It can be set to play the recorded loop in half-speed, normal speed, or reverse. The I/O is also simple on this pedal: one in, one out. It sounds basic but they packed a whopper inside this small form factor! First impressions were exceedingly GOOD.
**MAKE SURE YOUR WHEEL IS NOT POWERED** -Remove desk clips The first step I take is removing the desk clips. They will prevent the case from splitting on this wheel, so It's best to just get them out of the way now. When those are gone, you're ready to go! Remove the top cover located in the center of the wheel base, closest to the driver. You may need to pry lightly to get this to pop. id good screws top and bottom There are four screws on top of the case. The two screws furthest from the driver are hex head screws, while the two closest to the driver (under the cover!) are Philips head. On the bottom side of the base, there are many apparent screw holes, but most of these are for interior support. My wheel only had one screw holding things together from the bottom. If its not popping open, use a small flashlight to verify there are no screws holding the base together.
-she's open! look at them gears You now have a full interior view of the Original Logitech Driving Force Wheel. You can clearly see where the motor, gears and potentiometer are. (They may be due for an upgrade!) The simplicity inside is beautiful! find the power in locate the original Surface-mount power connector. It will be on the left side when viewing the open wheel with the control board closest to you. look at the plug I make an ERROR in this step, but it can be avoided. Look at the original POWER ADAPTER for your wheel, and find the polarity symbol. This shows you which part of the power connector is which. I soldered my colors backwards, but the polarity is the same. Use a meter in continuity mode to verify your polarity(the right way around!) Once you know where everything will go, start tinning everything-both ends of the xt60 connector, all the wires, and if you can dab some fresh on your control board solder points. get your heat shrink ready and get to tinning! I like to clip the ends off my wires after soldering to keep things tidy. Solder it up! I take a little bit of a rash approach to this, but I used some snips to create a small path for the new power wires to enter the case. At this point I realize my wires are reversed and have to just be ok with it. I checked everything and it was electrically correct, just the wire colors aren't ideal. It's finally time to test it out! I pulled out a Playstation 2 and powered everything up! Simply plugging the Logitech Driving Force Wheel into the USB provides the power and signal to show it's working! YAY! I show another power cycle at the very end. Once the rig is put together we'll see it's full startup sequence. The resistance against my steering hand is evidence that the wheel is working just as originally intended! It works! Stay tuned for more on this project. Showing off the progress with be a lot of fun!
Building A DIY VR Sim Racing Rig I need to repair this ORIGINAL Logitech Driving Force racing wheel after the power connector was chewed off by the puppy. This wheel is still in almost new working condition. It works wonderfully with Assetto Corsa and Trucking sim on PC (with some adjustments..) It's no surprise that this wheel works just as intended with Gran Turismo 4 on Playstation 2, and that's where I come in. I'm building a DIY VR Sim Racing Rig for GT4 on PS2! I'll provide a step-by-step following what I do in the video and clear up any errors along the way. We all make mistakes!
My GoPro went for a swim today! In the many years I've owned this camera, I've never fully submerged it. I was a little bit worried because both screens are cracked from all the crazy things I strapped this camera to, but it worked out wonderfully! GoPro Hero 8 Black is rated to go way deeper than my aquarium, and that great design is still working just as intended.
Meet Dr Labcoat! Witness the very scienc-y scientific incident
I'm not sure why I expected this to be anything other than awesome. The yellow PLA I'm using is transparent and UV reactive so.. Double cool. It works as a lithophane and it also glows really nicely. I'm looking forward to printing lithophanes in more colors and filament opacities. Now that I've produced a print with good quality I can work on some other ideas with this file. I'd like to produce an enclosed light box for these lithophanes that have RGB LED's inside for cool effects like basic white or color glow-or breathy flowy patterns. The sky is the limit on that kind of thing.
I've never printed lithophanes in anythning but opaque PLA, and only printed once in anything that wasn't white. The new experience alone is enough to excite me, and not doing any prior research is making it better! I actively haven't looked at any images or videos about this topic. I wanted it to be a fresh and new experience for me all around. I've printed lots of things with this neon yellow filament and I know it glows VERY well. The lights oversaturate the camera in my first tests. I use actinic blue lights in my studio instead of blacklights (Reef Nerd here!) and I'm fairly certain it adds a huge amount of pop to the yellow, but the oversaturation is kind of ugly. I did a short test video using Ilford Multigrade filters while filming with a GoPro hero 8 and I got some really neat results.
Im testing blue light filters on my GoPro Hero 8. We had some old Ilford Multigrade Color Filters lying around and I noticed they were in the same spectrum as some reef filters I see! The need arises when reefers need to take super good photos of their reef under the actinic(blue) lights. To take out the oversaturated blue, they use an orange filter. The results can be stunning!
For my uses, it seems like IM 0 or 00 will be ideal at the moment. In the test (which was filmed with daylight about) 00 seemed to provide the most natural look. I'm trying to find the best way I can produce solid-quality neon 3D printing videos in my studio with my rig. I think I've made some progress with this experiment!